Perfect lash formula

 Applying customized lashes for each client is almost like a mathematic formula. There are several variables involved. Curl type, length, thickness, and eye shapes are the four factors involved. Figuring out these factors can sometimes be daunting to clients. This is where an experienced lash professional comes in handy. Your lash artist should have the ability to access your eye shape, the curl of your natural eyelash, and ask you the thickness you prefer your extensions to be to achieve the look you desire. Let’s begin with curl types. 

Curls

                                                                              Figure 1

There are several different curl types. The most common are the J curl, C curl, CC curl, D curl, and L curl. With each curl type you will have different lengths to choose from. Lashes with a stronger curl are more noticeable from a frontal view and appear longer than a straighter curl in the same length. Meaning, if you want a more dramatic look from the front view, you can use a D curl instead of a C or B curl. Below is a quick guide for curl types.

J curl –  very natural.

C curl – a great universal curl and a very popular choice

CC curl – adds more drama for a natural, yet dramatic look

D curl – popular choice for an extra dramatic look

L curl – used on super straight natural lashes and hooded eyes

 

LENGTHS

                                                Figure 2               

Please believe me when I say, lash extensions come in all lengths and sizes. Lashes are available from 7mm to 17mm. Most salons carry 8mm to 14mm. 9mm to 12 mm are the most popular sizes. Do not be fooled, longer lashes are not always better. In fact, using lashes longer than 14mm will weigh down your natural lash. Unless your have long healthy natural lashes to begin with, I would advise using a shorter length. As I said before, all is not lost. If you choose a shorter lash length, you can always get a more dramatic curl or thicker lash extension to exaggerate your look.

THICKNES

                                                       Figure 3

Lashes are available in a variety of thicknesses: 0.07mm, 0.10mm, 0.12mm, 0.15mm, 0.18mm, 0.20mm, 0.23mm, 0.25mm and 0.30mm 

The thickness of a lash gives eyes the bold effect and the illusion of having eyeliner. I advise against anything thicker than 0.23mm because they are simply too heavy for most natural lashes to support. The thinner lashes on the right side of diagram below will give your lashes a more natural look and the ones on the left of the diagram will show a more dramatic illusion. 

 

EYE SHAPE

     The last element of the eyelash equation is the shape of your eyes. All curl types do not flatter all eye types. For example, women with hooded eyes will require a different set of lashes than ones with almond eyes. Figure 3 illustrates several different shaped eyes. Grab a mirror and see what type you have.

                                                                              Figure 4

Your lash artist will apply the specific lash extensions that compliment your eyes. I offer sets in lengths. Short sets range from lash lengths 7mm-10mm. Different parts of your eye require different lengths; lash artists should be able to mix the lengths to create a natural full look. Below are the lengths used to create certain sets for clients.

Short sets 7mm-10mm

Medium sets 11mm-14mm

Long sets 15mm–17mm

Extra-long sets- 17mm and above

Lash extensions take time and are absolutely a form of art. Eyes are one of the most important features on your face, so you want to make sure your lashes are complimenting and enhancing your already beautiful face. If you have any questions about the lashing process or your eye type please email me, I would love to chat.

Have a Fabu-LASH week! 

XO,

Judith B.

References:

Figure 1,2, & 3 found at http://professionals.premierlash.com/c-263-curl-chart.aspx

Figure 3 found at http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CzBj6f6IxKE/UM0CEwT2Z0I/AAAAAAAAMuo/771Sk352e8w/s1600/eye+chart.png